Mont Ventoux - a perfect trilogy

Mont Ventoux, or the “Giant of Provence,” is one of the most iconic climbs in the world, and it was the setting for our most recent cycling adventure. With its stark, barren summit and a reputation built on the legends of the Tour de France, it’s a mountain that promises an epic challenge. And Agata and I wanted to tackle it all. All three sides, in one day.

The Beginning of the Epic: Bédoin

We arrived in Bédoin late on a August Thursday evening. The town is small but completely dedicated to cycling. Bike shops, cafes, and rental spots are everywhere—it feels like the whole place exists to get you up that mountain. We got our bikes prepped and went to bed. The late arrival meant we were at the foot of the climb at 10 a.m next morning., already seeing riders descending.

The atmosphere on the Bédoin climb is something special. It's the most famous and steepest side, and it felt more like a cycling pilgrimage (or highway) than a ride. The sheer number of cyclists was incredible; it felt like if we all stopped, we could form a human chain from the bottom to the top. Two weeks earlier Tour de France was passing by, and the cheering signs were still fresh on the road. One can only imagine how it is to ride there during the actual race.... 

The first section winds through a beautiful, dense forest, providing a little shade from the sun. But as you climb higher, the trees give way to the famously barren, rocky moonscape, where the wind can really pick up. This is where you get that classic shot of cyclists against the white rock face.

Our climbing on this leg was a bit too enthusiastic. We reached the summit around noon, a bit tired but buzzing with the energy of the crowds. After a quick break, we set off for the second chapter.

The Tranquil and the Toasted: Sault

Our next stop was the village of Sault. To get there, we descended from the top, re-fueled and got ready for our second ascent. However, the first problem of the day appeared: my electronic shifting almost ran out battery. I hadn’t charged it in a while. With only the rear gears working and even these about to die at any moment, I knew the rest of the day would be about managing my cadence and riding out of the saddle to get through. This was going to be a real test!

The Sault route is the longest but also the easiest in terms of steepness. It starts with a gentle gradient that takes you through beautiful lavender fields. We were there in early August, so most were already harvested, but we were lucky to ride past one field that was still being cut—the sweet, incredible scent filled the air.

This climb was much quieter, with fewer cyclists and cars. The serenity was a stark contrast to the Bédoin climb. But the biggest challenge wasn’t the road; it was the fact that Agata had hit a wall. At the summit, she was spent and proclaimed her own "I'm done, I'm dead". After some convincing and a much-needed gel, we decided to descend to Malaucène for a long lunch break and reassess.

The Grand Finale: Malaucène

It was 4 p.m. by the time we reached Malaucène, and it was tough to find an open restaurant. We finally found one, had late lunch (and a huge ice cream), and Agata was back in the game. With the temperature dropping a bit, we started our final climb just after 5 p.m. This route has got a similar average steepness to the one from Bédoin, but features quite steep long sections. It’s also arguably the most scenic. Agata also ticked a special achievement here - most meters ever climbed in a day.

As you approach the summit, a massive vertical rock face looms over you, and the road winds around it. Since the route faces west, we were treated to a magical sunset. The entire mountain was bathed in incredible shades of red and orange. We were almost completely alone on this last ascent, and the quiet was perfect.

We reached the summit for the final time just as the sun was setting. The crowds were gone, replaced by a peaceful calm. Instead, people were huddled on the western side of the peak, having an apero and watching the spectacular view. We stayed for about 40 minutes, taking in the show, and then began our night descent.

An Adventure for the Books

We finally got back to our hotel after dark, exhausted but exhilarated. Doing all three climbs in one day is an incredible feat, and it felt so good to complete it. The three sides are distinct:

-Bédoin: The famous, atmospheric. 7.7% over 21 km.

-Sault: The tranquil, scenic, smelling of lavender. 4.9% over 24 km.

-Malaucène: The beautiful, challenging, dramatic scenery. 7.5% over 21 km.

Personal favourites? For me it was the first one (Bédoin) thanks to it unique atmosphere created by so many cyclists. For Agata it was the last one (Malaucène) due to its tranquillity and the finish with sunset.

We realized it too late, but it is possible to make it even this challenge official, and register the ride to be included in the "Club des Cinglés du Mont-Ventoux". In order to do it you have to announce your attempt in advance, and you get a card which needs to be stamped at the top. So far since the start of the club, over 21 thousands of cyclists registered their successful attempted on climbing Mont Ventoux on all three sides, and almost 500 cyclists repeated this twice (!) in one day.

Back home, we celebrated by scratching Mont Ventoux off our French Climbfinity scratch map. One down, and 99 other amazing French adventures await! Where to next?

One important piece of advice: bring enough water with you - 2 bottles are a must. There are no water fountains or streams on the way on any of the climbs. You can only buy drinks at the junction of Bedoin and Sault routes and there are restaurants in the ski resort on the climb from Malaucene. There is also a shop at the summit. You find water fountains at the bottom of each climb though.